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Destination Galapagos: Hood (Española)
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Galapagos: Hood Island

This 1,800sqft island is the largest in the Galapagos and lies on the western edge of the archipelago. is more than 100km long, very narrow and was created by the lava of 6 volcanoes flowing together. Some of them are as high as 1,700m (5,600ft). The Sierra Negra Volcano has the second largest crater in the world, measuring 10km (6 miles) in diameter. There are various sites to visit around the island. A two-day trek up Alcedo Volcano will lead you to some of the last of the wild tortoises found in the islands. In the north of Isabela there is a small promontory known as Punta Vicente Roca, on the southwestern edge of Volcano Ecuador. The point presides over a pair of jewel-like coves. The coves lie on either side of the eroded remains of a volcanic ash cone, which make up the point. The sheltered bay is a popular anchorage for boats and visitors may have a look around in dinghies. The surrounding cliffs are actually the interior walls of a fallen volcano and there is a partly flooded cave.

The area is also very good for scuba diving. Its abundant ocean life is the product of cool, nutrient-rich waters up welling off the volcano's steep submarine slopes. On the other side of the point is a secluded cove, accessible from the sea only through water-filled subterranean passages. Sea lions travel through these passageways and gather on the protected beaches of the hidden waters. Large numbers of blue-footed and masked boobies inhabit the point and the sheer cliffs, and flightless cormorants can be seen along the shoreline. Well-known sites on Isabella are Targus Cove, Elisabeth Bay, Las Tintoreras and Urvina Bay.

Targus Cove: This was a favourite site of pirates and early whalers, who left their ship names and historical graffiti carved on the high cliff. You can go ashore and visit a saltwater lagoon and the lava fields of Darwin Volcano. You will also have magnificent views over the ocean. Go along the cliffs with a launch and see the exclusive Galapagos penguins, the flightless cormorants and many other sea birds.

Elisabeth Bay: Located on Isabela´s west shore, this is extremely interesting for observing marine life. You can motor or kayak past a few islands where you usually see penguins. One of the best areas to take their photos. Through a small passage lined with mangroves you emerge into an enclosed cove. Turn your motor off and look in the sheltered waters for marine turtles, rays, flightless cormorants and others.

Las Tintoreras: Here you can observe the white tipped shark. It needs only a 5 min drive in a dinghy from Port Villamil. There is also a trail that allows you to see other plants and animals.

Urvina Bay: at the western coast of the island at the foot of Alcedo Volcano. The whole area was uplifted from the sea in 1954. Corals and other marine formations distinguish this site. Flightless cormorants and brown pelicans nest along the coast. You can also find large marine iguanas, rays, marine turtles, seashells and the plant Darwiniothamnus tenuifolius. In the south of the island, close to Port Villamil, there is a project of the Galapagos National Park. They study the reproduction process of the subspecies of Geochelone elephantopus gunteri (tortoise).

Gardner bay

As with most the dive sites in the Galapagos the yellowtailed surgeonfish is abundant here, but you are also likely to see streamer hogfish, Pacific burrfish, schools of yellowtail grunts, endemic grunts, many big groups of butterflyfish (barberfish), king angelfish, moorish idols, trigger fish, surgeon fish, and schools of barracuda.

In the rubble build up on the sandy bottom look for tiger snake eels crawling through the piles of rocks, starfish, and flower anemones.

In the deeper area of about 65 feet the sandy white bottom is home to hundreds of garden eels. You might also see a couple of the tiger snake eels swimming freely (until you try to take their picture, when they will burrow their way into the sand). If you wait by the rocks you might be lucky enough to see spotted eagle rays cruising in solo or in groups. Turtles are common here sometime surrounded by steel pampanos who are eating off the turtle's back.

Since this dive is one of the first during your Lammer Law trip, this may be your first opportunity to see hammerheads. Under the rocky ledges you'll find marbled rays, sleeping white-tips, and huge pufferfish. Keep watching even as you ascend to your safety stop. Spotted eagle rays cruise in groups all along as if they are waving good-bye.

Since Española Island (also called Hood Island) is three hours south of San Cristobal, the Lammer Law makes the trip at night so as to not interfere with either diving or land excursions.

Gardner Bay
If you want to see sea lions and pure white sandy beaches, Gardner Bay is the place to go. Bring your snorkel and you'll likely be swimming with the playful sealions. They cruise up and down the gentle surf to follow the tourists.

The white beach is full of sea lions basking in the sun. The bulls are protective of the area and will chase you away if you get too close, but most of the females look too relaxed to move for a brave photographer.

On both ends of the beach are black volcanic rocky areas decorated with bright red sally lightfoot crabs and plenty of marine iguanas. The island is also home to the Hood Mockingbird who seems to be afraid of nobody.

This is a wet landing so wear appropriate shoes and pack your camera in a water tight bag if possible. There is little shade so bring a lot of sunscreen and a hat.

Bring bathing suit, towel, snorkeling equipment Located on the Northeastern portion of Espanola facing Gardner Islet, we find a good spot for swimming and snorkeling. On shore, we walk along the brilliant white sand beach. This site is favored by sea turtles for nesting, sea lions for snoozing and visitors for taking long peaceful walks.

Punta Suarez

The variety and quantity of wildlife here is staggering. Many of the species are endemic to the island including the waved albatross, the Española Mockingbird, the Española marine iguana, and the giant Lava Lizard. Starting with the rocky landing, you'll be greeted by territorial sea lions who usually need to be herded out of the way to make room for the pangas. The path up to the island is full of marine iguanas basking in the sun. Watch your step for the many lava lizards that run quickly across your path.

The trail cuts across the island to the rocky cliffs on the other side. About half way in you'll see the waved albatross (from April to December). Some nest right next to the path, others, right on it. The birds have no fear of visitors and you can get quite close without disturbing them. On the far side of the island is the only place where these birds nest. It is estimated that there are 10,000 to 12,000 pairs of albatrosses on Española and that these are the only ones of this species on the planet.

When you get to the cliffs, the view is breathtaking. The waves work their way under the rocky volcanic rocks through a blow hole forming a salt water geyser that spurts every couple of minutes to create a spray of mist that fills the coastline. Here you'll see swallow-tailed gulls and red-billed tropicbirds.

On the path back you'll encounter many blue-footed and masked boobies who mate and nest here. The mating rituals of these birds is both beautiful and entertaining as they dance, sing and bear gifts for their potential partners.

Other birds found at Punta Suarez are the Galapagos hawk and Darwin finches.

The tour of Punta Suarez takes about 2 hours. The landing is wet, so bring the appropriate shoes. Bring lots of film because you'll use it all.

Wear good walking shoes This rocky point of land sustains one of the most impressive and varied colonies of sea birds in Galapagos. Along its southern shore, high cliffs rise up from the sea, for a spectacular view of soaring birds and the famous blowhole. YouÍll meet a multitude of blue footed boobies and masked boobies protecting eggs and young chicks. So awkward on land, the waved Albatross perform a strange courtship ritual.

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